2) Porcupine game - Teach your horse to follow a feel--to yield to pressure in all six directions (up, down, forward, back, left and right). Allow your horse the chance to yield to the lightest pressure possible before GRADUALLY increasing the pressure. Reward even the smallest effort to yield by releasing pressure--but not the contact--and praise. Give him time between efforts to think over what just happened. This game, and functional games based on Porcupine implementation, should use CONSTANT pressure. Increase phases as you need to, but don't JAB.

3) Driving game - This is an intermediate step that Pat has introduced since completing the book, which isolates a single component of the Yo-Yo, Circle, Sideways, and Squeeze Games. Teach your horse to yield to the suggestion of your driving (pulsing) rhythm--with hands, carrot stick, or swinging rope. The horse should yield to this implied pressure with hindquarters and shoulders, left and right, and straight back. Once these are solidified, Games 4-7 will go much more smoothly.

4) Yo-yo game - Teach your horse to go backwards and forwards on a straight line. Most horses have a broken yo-yo (they have just a YO). Some go forward and won't stop or back up. Some back up lightly but won't budge forward. It should be balanced to where 'whoa = go' and backwards happens just as easily as forwards.

5) Circling game - Teach your horse not to change gaits or change direction unless you ask. That's his responsibility - you should not have to be driving him with a whip every 1/4 lap. If your horse changes gaits make a quick correction and go back to asking nothing. Pass the rope behind your back rather than driving the horse by turning. Minimum of two laps, but no more than four--more than four will either frustrate or cause boredom in your horse.

6) Sideways game - Teach your horse to yield sideways. The better your horse goes sideways and backwards, the better he does everything else. The converse is true as well: the WORSE your horse goes sideways, the worse he does everything else!

7) Squeeze game - Horses are claustrophobic--teach your horse to squeeze between you and the fence, or between two objects. If your horse can't relax and walk between you and the fence, brushing you as he goes by, what makes you think he'll be comfortable with a leg on each side? Remember that your horse can go in six directions, so don't neglect making use of them--squeeze over and under things as well, such as jumps, poles, branches, or sheets. This will help your horse become braver. Trailer loading is a breeze once you have gotten to the squeeze game.

Natural Horsemanship

This is communication with horses based on psychology and understanding rather than mechanics and intimidation.

Gunsil

The name horses give to people who have had a savvy bypass! Horses apply gunsil tests continuously, some are: stepping on your foot, knocking your hat off, snorting all over you, slobbering on you, bucking you off, nipping, biting, kicking, pushing you over, doing the opposite of what you want, refusing to get in the trailer, wash rack, race barriers, roping box, etc.!

Savvy

Is natural know-how. It is understanding times ten. It is horse wisdom. In terms of horse savvy, its knowing when to be, where to be, why to be and what to do when you get there. Savvy means you know how to relate to horses, how to handle them, to solve and prevent problems both on the ground and on the horse's back, in any situation, at any time.

The Four Savvys

A term to express the four essential areas in which a Horseman needs to develop his understanding and ability with horses.

On Line - practiced as groundwork means developing communication via lead ropes and lines of various lengths attached to the horse. We teach the horse everything he needs to know on the ground first ... about pressure, confidence, bravery, responsiveness, respect and impulsion.

Liberty - also practiced on the ground, is communication with no strings attached. The horse is loose, completely at Liberty. This may be in a stall, pasture, corral or round corral. It involves a high degree of mental connection.

Freestyle - is the practice of riding a horse without contact. Therefor loose reins or no reins. It is a casual riding position as well as an approach to teach the rider to develop an Independent Seat and the Horse to develop Self Carriage. 80 - 100% of riding time should be Freestyle otherwise you teach your horse to become dull.

Finesse - is the practice of riding a horse with short reins, contact, extreme refinement and precision, with almost invisible aids. It may or may not involve vertical flexion depending on the circumstances. This type of riding should constitute no more than 20% of the riding time in order to maintain a healthy mental attitude and maximum performance in the horse.

Respect, Impulsion, Flexion

Flexion - is mental collection and its what you get or don't get on the ground. This is the purpose of the Seven Games. Respect implies unconditional trust, unquestioned leadership, lack of fear,and high esteem. Respect is also reciprocal - horse for human and human for horse.

Impulsion - is emotional collection, and respect gives impulsion. When the impulsion system is problematic you are dealing with a sluggish, unresponsive horse, or an impulsive runaway who constantly has to be held back. Impulsion is when go = whoa. This means it is as easy for the horse to go forward as it is to go stop, and vice versa. This is check and balance.

Flexion - is physical collection. It involves both Lateral and Vertical Flexion and it is the last to be developed in this formula. Flexion will come naturally as a result of Respect and Impulsion.

Problems in the flexion system are rooted in the Impulsion system. And problems in the Impulsion system are rooted in the Respect system. "Collection" is the sum total of Respect, Impulsion and Flexion properly combined.

The Seven Games

The first three Games are "principle" games. They are like the alphabet upon which you will build sentences.

Game # 1 The Friendly Game

Proves to your horse you will not act like a predator, that you are friendly and can be trusted. You need to gain his confidence and be able to touch him with a friendly "feel" everywhere on his body. Any areas he is defensive about tell you of his skepticism about you. By using approach and retreat , get to where you can get permission to touch every place without forcing him to accept. You can then advance to where you can get permission to touch every place without forcing him to accept. You can then advance to tossing ropes, sticks, flags, coats, anything you can think of to get him braver, more confident and less skeptical.

Keys: smile, rhythm, approach and retreat, desensitization.

Game # 2 The Porcupine Game

Teaches your horse to move away from pressure. In this way it prepares him to understand how to respond to the rein, the bit, the leg, etc. It is applied with a steady feel (not intermittent poking) and increases steadily until the horse responds, at which time the pressure is instantly released. This pressure is applied in Four Phases, fly, mosquito, blackbird, eagle! Each phase gets stronger, and there is no release until the horse responds. in this way, its the release that teaches the horse he made the right move. If he responds at phase 1, then go no further. If it takes up until phase 4 , be prepared to persist with this until the horse tries to find comfort. reward the slightest try with instant release, rubbing (as in the Friendly Game) and a smile. The Porcupine Game needs to be taught in all Zones.

Keys: concentrated look, steady pressure, four phases.

Game # 3 The Driving Game

This game teaches the horse to respond to implied pressure, where you suggest to the horse to move and he moves without you touching him. It can be effected at close and long distances as you get more advanced. Again, four phases are important. Phase 1 is no touching just pumping the air, phase 2 is light tapping with finger tips, phase 3 is medium and insistent tapping with the hands and phase 4 is slapping vigorously with flat hands. All the while the rhythm does not falter, does not change. And as soon as the horse responds, relax your arms and smile. It does not take long for the horse to learn to move at phase 1. Learn to drive your horse in all directions. Use the Zones.

Keys: concentrated look, rhythm, four phases.

The next four games are "purpose" games. Once you have created a language, now you can ask for maneuvers.

Game # 4 Yo-Yo

Send the horse backwards away from you and forwards to you in a straight line. Using 4 phases: start by just wiggling a finger at the horse; phase 2 - wiggle the rope; phase 3 - shake the rope so it lifts off the ground to the height of your knees; phase 4 - shake the rope more vigorously until it lifts off the ground to the height of your waist. The instant you horse moves backward, stop! It is important to keep both you horses eyes on you. As soon as the horse turns one eye away from you by turning his head, you will lose the backup and straightness! Pay attention to the detail and correct it before it gets off course.

You can play the Yo-Yo slowly at first on flat ground. As it gets better, get more provocative and play it on uneven ground, at a faster pace, over a pole or log, or on a longer rope. This is how you teach a horse to respect your space when leading, to develop suspension and self carriage, for counter-balancing forward-aholics, to improve your stop, to develop a slide stop.

Keys: straightness; responsiveness; imagination

Game # 5 Circling Game

Do not confuse this with mindless lunging. It works the horse mentally, emotionally, and physically, and it teaches him to stay connected to you and keep a softness in the line between you. There are three parts to the Circling Game: the Send, the Allow and the Bring Back.

To send the horse lead Zone 1 in the direction you want, if the horse does not snappily follow, lift the tail of your rope, then swing it, then Touch Zone 1, (even just the rope in front of his nose). By sending Zone 1, you cause the horse to shift his weight on to his hindquarters.

The 4 phases therefore are: Lead, Lift, Swing, Touch. At any point that your horse responds, relax instantly and leave him alone. Smile and pass the rope around your back giving the horse the opportunity to take responsibility for maintaining motion on the circle. This is the Allow. Do a minimum of 2 laps and a maximum of four. If you have to continuously ask your horse to keep going, he is winning the game! Trust the horse and as soon as he stops, turn and face him with a concentrated look, pull Zone 1 ahead on to the circle and stimulate Zone 5, when he goes, smile. To bring your horse back to you, turn and face your horse, start reeling the rope in (phase 1) until you have enough tail in the rope to lift (phase 2) then swing (phase 3) then touch (phase 4) on Zone 4 if he does not disengage his hindquarters and face you. Again, stop and smile at any movement the horse makes the right response. Bring the horse all the way in to you and rub for the Friendly Game. Disengagement of the hindquarters is very important. It is how you teach a horse control.- mentally, emotionally and physically.

Keys: three parts: send allow and bring back; four phases; responsibility for the horse.

Game # 6 Sideways Game

Note this is sideways, not side pass! It is teaching the horse to go sideways equally right and left with ease. The two important Zones are Zone 1 and Zone 4 ... send Zone 1, then Zone 4, then 1, then 4 etc. until the horse is moving laterally sideways. Allow a long rope and distance.

Sideways is important for developing suspension, as a counter balance for forward-aholics, for lead changes, and spins. Start slow and right ( as opposed to fast and wrong!), use a fence or rail to prevent forward movement, graduate to no fence at all, being able to move quickly sideways.

Keys: long rope; Zone 1 and Zone 4; four phases.

Game # 7 Squeeze Game

Horse by nature are claustrophobic.They are afraid of any small or tight space. The Squeeze Game teaches your horse to become braver and calmer, to squeeze through narrow spots without concern. Start with a large gap (it might have to be very large!) between you and a fence or wall, a even a barrel. Ask your horse to go through the space while you stand still or while you walk backwards and parallel to it. ( The reason backwards works well is because it helps draw the horse towards you.)

Direct Zone 1 into the gap (phase1), lift the tail of the rope (phase2 ) , swing the rope two revolutions ( phase 3) touch the horse in Zone 3 (phase 4) once. Then begin again until the horse tries to move forward into the gap. As soon as it does, release the pressure, relax and smile. Pretty soon your horse will make it all the way through. Allow the rope to slide through your hand as he passes by you so he feels total release, not a jerk backwards. as your horse gets more confident, make the space smaller and smaller until it is just three feet wide like the bay of a horse trailer!

You can use the principal of the Squeeze Game to teach the horse to jump, to go into trailers, wash bays, racing barriers, roping box, bucking chute etc. Getting less claustrophobic also helps a cinchy horse.

Keys: walk backwards; start with a large space; four phases; practical challenges and applications.

Four Phases of Friendliness

The secret to effectiveness with a horse, a really fair way. It helps soft people become more assertive and aggressive people to get firm without being mean or mad. By taking the horse's comfort away in phases, you allow the horse to choose to respond to phase 1, he learns to avoid the higher phases.

Phase 1: minimal stimulus, Phase 2: double that, Phase 3: double that ( without getting mean or mad!), Phase 4 double that (until you get a response)

These phases are applied with both physical (Porcupine) and suggested ( Driving) communications both on the ground and on the horse's back.

When playing the Porcupine Game (Game # 2) the phases would be 1) Fly, 2) Mosquito, 3) Blackbird, 4) Eagle.

Zone-Ology

There are five active Zones on a horse and one delicate one.

Zones are a teaching and diagnostic tool which help you to be systematic in checking a horse for problem spots e.g. where he can and cannot be touched. A knowledge of Zones allows you to thoroughly teach a horse to yield to pressure in all Zones and help you to learn appropriate positioning. For example, in the Circling Game, you lead Zone 1, drive Zone 1 to send the horse out and around, then lead Zone 1 and drive Zone 4 to disengage the hindquarters and bring him back to you.

Opposition Reflex

An instinctual reason for self defense. A horse will have an Opposition Reflex under the following circumstances: fear, pain, anger, confusion, misunderstanding. Examples of Opposition Reflex include biting, kicking, rearing, bolting, bucking, pulling back, striking, opposing the bit, swishing the tail, grinding the teeth, laying ears back, refusing to move, etc. Most people tend to think these are vices and signs of disobedience. Learning about Opposition Reflex is critical to learning to read a horse and to understanding why it is reacting this way. It does involve a lack of respect, not in terms of disobedience so much as lack of trust and esteem for the human.

People have Opposition Reflexes too! They get tight in the mind, tight in the body and dig in with all their "claws", grab or jerk on the reins, cling and clutch with their legs (which scares the horse!) Fear, frustration and anger are the main causes. It is important to strive to overcome Opposition Reflex by becoming emotionally fit.

Comfort/Discomfort

These are the prime motivators for a horse. Punishment is not effective for prey animals. Horses are interested in safety and comfort. They learn through release, the instant provision of comfort when they do the right thing. Discomfort is what motivates horses to find comfort. The Four Phases is how a Horseman takes comfort away in increments until the horse is motivated to respond. Every communication with a horse involves affecting his comfort in some way. Timing is a critical factor.

Direct Rein

Leads the front end. It opens the away from the neck, lifting slightly outward and upward.

Indirect Rein

Disengages, disempowers and controls the hindquarters by causing the hind legs to step under the body and cross each other. The Indirect Rein is effected by bringing our rein to your belly button and lifting upwards toward your opposite shoulder for an exaggerated application. It is also used in an advanced context to illicit a weight shift to the hindquarters in preparation for a maneuver.

Supporting Rein

This is a "pushing" rein. It is applied in conjunction with a Direct Rein to bring the outside shoulder across in a turn or spin. It should form a straight line between the hand and the bit and not cross over the neck so as to bend it.

Lateral Flexion

A submissive head position for control and disengagement of the hindquarters. Involves the use of one rein and teaches the horse to bend his neck and bring his head to your foot. By turning the head to one side, it is difficult for the horse to run off! This is the basis of "one rein for control".

Vertical Flexion

A submissive head position for communication and engagement of the hindquarters. A vertical head position with the resultant arched neck and rounded back has its purpose to empower the hindquarters for advanced athletic maneuvers (dressage, reining, cow working). Vertical Flexion arrives naturally as the result of respect, impulsion and flexion properly combined and is accompanied by a soft feel through the reins. It should not be achieved through force and leverage bits as the mental and emotional state of the horse is an important component. Vertical Flexion without respect and impulsion is called a "headset" and is potentially dangerous because it empowers Opposition Reflex.

Independent Seat

Where the rider does not rely on the reins or the stirrups or grip with the lower leg for balance. The seat is independently able to move and stay in harmony with the horse's movements, and similarly the hands and legs to work independently to communicate what is required no matter what is disturbing the seat!

Self Carriage

Where the horse is completely responsible for his balance and carriage. He has his weight absolutely correct for the gait he is in. A horse that is on the forehand usually is leaning on the bit and is inclined to increase the gait if not held back (is thinking gallop), or is lazy and lacks respect and impulsion.

Self Carriage is achieved with Freestyle riding especially over uneven terrain and in being able to effect transitions and stops without the use of the reins. The horse in this way is athletically positioned and ready for immediate changes in gait and direction whenever asked.

PNH Equipment

A range of halters, lines, sticks, reins and bareback pad designed as communication tools. The more savvy you have, the more particular you become about the function and accuracy of your tools. The equipment improves timing and precision by delivering the perfect effect of Phases of Firmness and Instant Release. Pat has spent years of trying and improving designs; searching for the right rope that has the ability to communicate energy and responsive enough to quit; developing the most effective lengths, the balance, even the weighting. The products that are Pat's original design are: The Horseman's Halter, 6' Horseman's String, 12' Line, 22' Line (Ring Rope), 45' Line (specially soft lay), Natural Hackamore, Horseman's Reins, Sport reins, Bareback Pad (with proper cinching capability, roughout leather upper and medical felt under-side and leather handle and no stirrups.) If you were Bruce Lee, you'd be very particular about the mumchucks you choose! However, tools without savvy is just as inadequate as savvy without the right tools.

Natural Hackamore

A Hackamore is a "bitless" bridle. It involves a nose piece or "bosal", is made of leather, rope or rawhide, and has no mechanical leverages. It is used in the developmental phases of a horse and a rider's education to overcome Opposition Reflex in both before putting a bit in the horse's delicate mouth. The Hackamore is intended for teaching lateral flexion and is used in Freestyle riding. The Natural Hackamore is a product developed by Pat Parelli using smooth, soft rope for the headstall and bosal, and 1/2 inch rope for the reins. It has a mecate style rein (loop rein plus 12' Line) which we call the Horseman's Reins. You can therefore use it for ground skills as well as riding. we suggest the Natural Hackamore be selected once you are riding more than doing ground skills, therefore in the latter part of Level 1 and into Level 2 as preparation for the snaffle.

Snaffle

This is a bit without shanks and may be jointed or straight mouthed. It is not a leverage bit of any kind and is intended for a more refined communication and is important for teaching lateral flexion and the independent use of the reins. (PNH Level 2 & 3). Pat recommends a loose-ring jointed snaffle, which allows the bit to swing and adjust. It should be of medium thickness and made of sweet iron which has a tendency to rust. Horses actually enjoy licking rust whereas stainless steel is distasteful.

Bit (or Bridle)

This is a curb bit with shanks. It should have a straight mouth piece, it should not be jointed or it will produce a scissor action in the horses mouth. The Bit is used in the advanced training of a horse (PNH Level 4 and up). It's primary function is to enhance Finesse and power through Vertical Flexion and straightness. The Bit is for refined communication, not control.

Levels Program

Pat Parelli's system for progressing a Horseman. A real Horseman is someone with horse savvy in all areas concerning horses both on the ground and on their back. The Levels Program is a plan of where to start and how to progress logically, safely and systematically to a point of great expertise with horses in a relatively short space of time. It is non-denominational and can be applied to all disciplines, both English and Western, recreation or competition, working, breeding, training, teaching, driving, gaited horses, etc.

Study Group

A group of registered students studying Pat Parelli's system, the Levels Program, in order to become a Horseman. they meet regularly and assist each other in understanding the concepts, staying focused on their goals, helping each other to make progress, to use their imagination and to stay positive, progressive and natural.

Imprint Training

This is a method developed by Dr. R M Miller to habituate and desensitize foals to the human environment. It also breaks down the prey/predator barrier between foal and human. Imprint Training, which must take place during the first two hours of life, introduces the human as part of the foal's family. In PNH terms it is the Friendly Game (Game # 1) which is used to engender trust and to prove friendly intent.